Perhaps someday I will call myself a pet “guardian.” Not today.

I am very aware of the words I use to describe my relationships with my pets. I’ve used the term “foster mom” and “dog mom,” and I do so lightheartedly.

I do not really believe Ace is my child; I don’t want him to be. I do not believe my parents are his “grandparents” even though we use the term for fun.

These kinds of beliefs deprive Ace of his dog-hood. He is not a human, he is a dog. He knows he’s a dog, and he’s happy being a dog!

A cat “guardian”? Ha!

My cats are an even better example.

I love my cats very much, and one of the things I love about them is their wildness. They don’t depend on me, at least not as much as I’d like to think. Most cats could survive just fine without people.

Beamer is a survivor. Pure animal.

When I need a reality check, I look to him.

Beamer doesn’t need me. I am not his guardian. If he could comprehend that statement, he would probably weave around my ankles politely and say, “Oh, you poor human. It’s OK.”

When Beamer was allowed outside, he caught and killed all kinds of small animals – bunnies, mice, moles, birds. He would be gone for days, even in January. We figured he slept in window wells, under vehicles or whored his way into other homes.

We live in an area now where our cats need to be indoors or closely supervised outside. I guess we are being their “guardians” in that sense.

I know Beamer was much happier when he was allowed to roam. He was free to hunt and run and climb and have sex and scratch and kill. I look forward to the day when we move to the country so my cats can be outside again. I hope this happens sooner rather than later.

Ace

My mutt Ace, on the other hand, is very much dependent on me. Maybe that’s why people believe they are guardians of their dogs. The love I feel for Ace is different than the love I have for my cats, and I think it’s because of this dependence on me. In that sense, I am like his guardian.

In another sense, though, Ace is my guardian.

When Josh, Ace and I are out backpacking, Ace will keep us both in sight, even if we separate. If Josh is setting up a tent and I am off gathering wood or taking photos, Ace will sit somewhere in the middle, watching us. If trees block his view he will travel back and forth between us. I like to think he’s watching out for his pack, but I don’t know what he’s really doing.

It doesn’t happen often, but every now and then when we are out late at night or early in the dark mornings, Ace will spy or smell a shadowy figure and growl. Maybe he’s scared. Maybe he’s protecting me. Maybe he’s only protecting himself. I don’t know.

Would Ace fight for me? I don’t know. Would I fight for him? I already do.

I will continue to do everything I can for this dog for the rest of his life. He is in many ways my best friend. He reads me like no one else can. He predicts my movements, senses my frustrations, seems to read my mind.

Maybe part of my problem with the term “pet guardian” is that Ace is better than that. I am not his guardian. We are partners in crime.

Legally, what is a pet guardian?

Used as a legal term, “pet guardian” is an attempt to change society’s relationship with companion animals. The idea is we shouldn’t own another living creature. That all sounds nice, but legally it’s not so simple. What it really does is remove the rights of pet owners.

As a pet owner, I have the freedom to decide what is best for my pets. As a pet guardian that freedom is taken away. Choices are made for me.

A pet “guardian” is required to act in the “best” interest of an animal according to a court system. So if someone decides you are not acting in the best interest of your pet, you will be forced to act accordingly.

Think these situations will never apply to you? I wouldn’t be so sure.

What about when you face decisions about euthanasia? The choice may be made for you. What if you decide to kennel your dog during the day to keep him safe? Not going to happen if the court decides this is not “best” for your dog. What if you decide to use a choke collar? What if you want to tie your dog in the yard for an hour? Allow him to stick his head out the window of your car? Allow him off leash?

As someone who works in the pet industry as a pet sitter and dog walker, these examples are scary. If pet owners are no longer owners but “guardians” I can only imagine what my insurance costs will be. I can only imagine the lawsuits that vets, boarding kennels and groomers could potentially face. Costs will go up for everyone, and there will no longer be such a wide variety of pet services. It will be too much of a risk for business owners.

I understand where people are going with the whole “guardian” concept. I’m just not sure I want to be a part of it.

I believe in a humane life for every animal, not just dogs. I believe people should treat animals with respect and dignity and kindness. This does not mean treating them like people or assuming our emotions are their emotions. It means acknowledging them for the animals they are.

Out of the 1,073 impounded dogs last year, 62 percent were reclaimed by their owners, 36 percent were taken in by rescue groups and 2 percent (23 dogs) were labeled “unadoptable” by the pounds and therefore euthanized.

To word this another way, Fargo had a 100 percent live release rate for adoptable dogs – a number unheard of in most areas. (For the rest of this post, you can assume I am referring to Fargo, West Fargo and Moorhead when I say Fargo.)

Why the success?

Well, these are just a few of my thoughts – strictly opinions here. I’d love to hear your thoughts, no matter where you live.

Fargo has no government-controlled shelter system

Many communities blame their killing stats on a lack of government funding. You don’t need a government-controlled shelter. You need dedicated community members.

Fargo has at least five established rescue/shelter organizations. These groups receive no government funding. They depend on volunteers, fundraising, donations and grants – not tax dollars. Many of the dogs and cats in these groups live in foster homes. Adopt-A-Pet and 4 Luv of Dog Rescue depend entirely on foster homes. The humane society has an actual shelter, as does the new CATS Cradle. Natural Pet Center has rescued cats for adoption at its store.

Fargo is a dog friendly community

All kinds of resources are available here for training, exercising and socializing our dogs. If the goal is to keep as many dogs out of the pounds as possible, these opportunities matter very much.

Dog training

Fargo has at least two affordable obedience training facilities that offer group classes in basic obedience and beyond. A big shout out to Red River North Dog Obedience club where Ace and I have trained for years. Classes there are around $55 total for seven weeks. Red River North is a nonprofit organization and makes a big difference for the dogs.

Fargo also has several professional trainers who do house visits, and Pawsitive Vybe offers individual and group training on anything from interaction to tricks.

Dog boarding, pet sitting and dog daycare

There are at least seven boarding kennels and dog daycares in Fargo. These facilities are very affordable. Ace can stay at Sheyenne River Kennels for just $21 per night. A day of daycare at Chasing Tails is just $15. We also have at least six established pet sitters such as myself (Run That Mutt). If you need to head out of town, you have many options for your pets.

Dog exercise

For exercise, we have my dog running service through Run That Mutt and a few others who offer dog walking. Fargo has three public, off-leash dog parks and on-leash dogs are welcome at dozens of little parks scattered throughout the city. There are plenty of spots to take your dog swimming in the summer if you choose. The area is rural enough that many of us get away with allowing our dogs off leash, especially out in the country or in quiet parks.

Fargo has a low-cost spay/neuter clinic

Minn-Kota PAAWS makes a huge difference not only to our community but to the region. The mission of PAAWS is to spay and neuter barn, feral, stray and companion animals. You can’t just hound people to get their pets fixed. Most people would prefer to spay/neuter their animals, but they might not have the money to do so or the transportation to get there. My mutt Ace was neutered at PAAWS before I adopted him.

Microchip clinics

The F-M Humane Society offers microchip clinics several times per year where people can show up and have their pets microchipped on site for just $30 per pet. I’ve been meaning to get my cat Scout microchipped, and this is definitely something I should take advantage of.

Affordable pet supplies

4 Luv of Dog Rescue offers the Kibble Kitchen that distributes dog food on an as-needed basis to those who apply. Anyone who needs some extra help paying for dog food can apply here.

Jazzy & Mumbos Thrift Store in West Fargo accepts donations for pet owners in need such as kennels, bowls, leashes and unopened pet food. It also accepts items for the humans such as gently used clothing or furniture.

Safe Paws program

Safe Paws assists those who need help with their pets in order to leave an abusive situation. Sometimes people are afraid to leave a physically abusive spouse because there is nowhere for their pets to go. Safe Paws offers a network of temporary foster homes for these pets. The program is a collaboration between the F-M Humane Society, the Rape and Abuse Crisis Center, YWCA of Cass Clay and a local veterinary clinic. More info here.

What are some other reasons Fargo (or any other community) is so successful getting impounded dogs into homes? Let me know in the comments!

Now, on a heavier note:

Fargo can do better.

Twenty-three dogs were euthanized in our local pounds in 2011.

These dogs were labeled “unadoptable” for various reasons by the pound workers. Some had been hit by cars and were too injured to help, according to the humane society. The humane society did not make these decisions; it simply reported the statistics from the pounds. A few were labeled as too aggressive around humans and were killed.

What is considered too aggressive? How are these dogs evaluated?

These are questions I would like to ask the city pound workers, and I’m guessing this evaluation system could be greatly improved. The rescues themselves depend on these evaluations from the pounds, and from what I have seen these evaluations are not always accurate.

If the kill rate for “adoptable” dogs is literally zero, then it’s safe to say we have the resources available to help at least a few of these less adoptable dogs.

What about the cats?

The cat situation here is very sad. In 2011, 48 percent of the impounded cats were killed, according to the pound stats reported by Adopt-A-Pet. Just over half made it out of the pounds alive.

When you look at dogs and cats combined, about 23 percent were killed and 77 percent were saved in 2011. That’s not good. Ninety percent would be good.

I am really excited about the new CATS Cradle shelter, as well as the existing cat rescues and shelters all working together to come up with a plan to save more cats. There is a lot of potential, and I know the 2012 numbers will be dramatically different than past numbers.

There is a lot of work to be done for our cats. I have some concerns and ideas myself, but I would really love to hear your ideas. Please share them in the comments.

No Kill Conference

You may be interested in attending the No Kill Advocacy Center’s No Kill Conference Aug. 10-11 in Washington, D.C. I expect this conference to fill up within the next few weeks, so if you are interested you should sign up soon. And let me know if you are going! (I haven’t made my decision yet!)

No-kill communities

Everyone has her own idea of what “no kill” actually means. Unfortunately that’s what turns people off from the phrase. To me, “no kill” means killing no healthy, adoptable dogs or cats. Euthanizing an animal that is suffering is different than killing a healthy animal due to a “lack of resources.”

I do not believe in finding sanctuaries for dangerously aggressive dogs to live out their lives. I do not believe in hospice care for sick or injured dogs that are suffering.

I want to point out this list of recognized no-kill communities in the United States. Many people believe it is not realistic or possible for a community to become 100 percent no kill. Well, there are at least 26 communities that have done it so far. Duluth, Minn., is one community that became no kill in 2010. The city of Duluth found a home for every adoptable cat and dog in 2010. I believe Fargo will be on this list as well in coming years.

How do you define “no kill”? Based on your definition, is it possible?

Two little kitties on a big-dog bed.

One big dog on a little, kitty bed.

Sometimes there is just one kitty on the big-dog bed.

And sometimes there are two kitties on the big-dog bed.

“Oh, well.”

That’s 446 cats killed for no reason.

It’s a number I can’t get out of my head.

The cats here have needed some major help for a long time, and finally there is some hope: CATS Cradle Shelter.

CATS Cradle Shelter Fargo

CATS Cradle is a temporary home for roughly 35 cats and kittens up for adoption in Fargo.

I got to tour CATS Cradle and meet many of the cats up for adoption such as Bob, Smokie, Denzel, Mike, Murray, Star and many others. The adoptable cats are listed through Petfinder on the shelter’s Facebook page here. There are cats of every color, age, size and personality.

The shelter provides a relaxing environment for the cats with large windows, scratching posts, cat beds, blankets, shelves to climb on and tunnels to hide in. The shelter is “community style” meaning five to 10 cats live together in an open room. The cats do not live in kennels. Instead, they are free to wander around. As you can see, they seem pretty stress free.

It can go a long way when potential adopters get to see the cats in a real environment rather than in cages. At CATS Cradle, the cats get to interact with people and with each other, moving around, stretching, napping, playing, crawling into your lap.

When I knelt down with my camera, many of the cats wanted to come and see what I was up to. Most did not appear frightened. Instead they were playful and curious, putting their little noses right up to the lens or pawing at the zippers on my coat.

This sweet black cat was constantly invading my personal bubble. I was tempted to take this cat home

CATS Cradle is a voice for the cats, said Gail Ventzke, one of five shelter directors. People tend to value cats less than dogs, she said. Although cat owners will call the pounds looking for their lost cats, they often decide not to pay the required fees to get them back.

At the Fargo pound, the cost to recover an impounded cat is $35 plus a boarding fee for each day the cat is impounded, according to the city’s web site. There is also a $25 penalty fee if the animal is unlicensed. If a cat is not claimed by her owner within three business days she will be released to an adoption agency (depending on space) or killed.

In Moorhead, the first-time impound fee is $30, according to the city’s web site. There is also a $50 fee for an unlicensed cat, and a $16.03 boarding fee for each day the cat is impounded. Cats are given at least five business days to be claimed by an owner or taken in by an adoption agency before they may be killed.

The majority of the cats that come to CATS Cradle are rescued directly from the Moorhead pound, according to Ventzke. CATS Cradle is also contacted by individuals attempting to surrender their cats, but the shelter typically tries to help these people re-home the cats themselves.

How to adopt one of the cats

If you would like to adopt a cat from CATS Cradle, stop by the shelter to meet your potential new family member.

You will be asked to fill out an application form (it’s only one page!) and pay an adoption donation fee of $90. If you rent, you will need permission from your landlord to have a cat. There is always a three-week trial period to help you determine if you and the cat are a good match.

When you adopt an adult cat from CATS Cradle, the cat will already by spayed/neutered, de-wormed, vaccinated, microchipped and tested for FeLV/FIV, Ventzke said.

For kittens, the $90 adoption donation fee includes all of the above if age appropriate, according to the shelter’s Facebook page. Costs of routine first-year vaccinations as well as microchipping and spaying/neutering are also covered if services are through the Minn-Kota PAAWS Clinic in Fargo. If the procedures are done elsewhere, they are at the adopter’s expense.

All of this for just $90 is quite the deal!

In the short time I was at the shelter, at least two adoptions were in the works. One white cat named Cotton was possibly going to her new home with a young woman. A young couple was interested in a little white and gray tabby named Evlyn. Another couple was in to meet the kittens.

How to volunteer with or donate to CATS Cradle

If you are interested in volunteering with or making a monetary donation to CATS Cradle, stop by and visit the shelter between 4 and 7 p.m. Tuesdays or 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Saturdays. It is located at 9 Ninth St. S. in Fargo. Appointments are also available. The shelter’s web site will be up and running soon, but for now you can also find more information on the shelter’s Facebook page or by calling 701.356.7877.

Volunteers are always needed to help with cleaning and socializing the cats, Ventzke said.

CATS Cradle has organized “scooping shifts” and an impressive schedule for feeding, watering, changing bedding and cleaning the floors and walls.

The shelter is as clean as a building with 35+ cats can be with no smell of cat urine. I did notice when someone had just used a litter box, but with 30 or more cats, that is understandable!

As you can see, the lobby is clean, open and inviting. So are each of the cat rooms.

Meet the cats for adoption!

Below are just a few of the wonderful cats up for adoption at CATS Cradle, but you can see them all by visiting the shelter or checking out its Facebook page at Facebook.com/CATSCradleShelter.

Smokie

Smokie was one of the first cats I met at the shelter. He seems like a really laid-back guy and had no problem with a stranger petting him or holding a camera in his face. He’s a large cat, and I hear he likes to be talked to but doesn’t like to be held just yet.

Smokie was rescued along with a colony of other cats, according to his Petfinder profile. He seems to enjoy the company of other cats and likes snuggling with his roommates. He’s also tolerant of the younger cats who always want to play.

Look how handsome he is!

Murray

Murray is one of the cats in Smokie’s room. If you look closely you can see that his eyes are different colors. One is a lighter shade of yellow than the other. The shelter volunteers believe he might be hard of hearing since he doesn’t respond to certain sounds.

Murray was definitely friendly and eager to meet me. He was the first cat to greet me at the shelter, and he made a good impression!

And here are a few of the other cats I met. This gray cat shares a room with Smokie and Murray.

And this little one is one of several kittens – all friendly, playful and ridiculously adorable. They were running around wrestling, pouncing and scratching, and they seem well socialized. They didn’t mind when I picked them up and cradled them.

I hope you are able to visit CATS Cradle and meet some of these great cats! I am very excited about this new shelter, because it’s going to make a huge difference for the cats in our community.

No matter where you live, are you thinking about adopting a cat anytime soon?

I definitely view declawing as a last resort, but if my cats start to destroy our new couch, all bets are off.

Quite a few cat owners as well as Beamer and Scout’s vet suggested I try a product called Soft Paws to put over their claws. I decided to give this product a shot.

What are Soft Paws nail caps for cats?

Soft Paws are nail caps that you glue over your cat’s front claws. The Soft Paws keep the claws covered and therefore reduce the amount of damage caused by the cat’s scratching.

The Soft Paws could also be used to prevent a cat from scratching a child or a dog, however that was not my reason for trying this product.

Before I tried the Soft Paws, my main questions and concerns were:

1. How easy are the Soft Paws to put on the cats?

2. Will the Soft Paws for cats actually stay on?

3. Will the Soft Paws nail caps really prevent damage?

4. How much do Soft Paws cost?

5. What will my cats think of the Soft Paws?

6. Are there any problems with the Soft Paws?

So now that I’ve been testing the product for about a month, I’m ready to go over each of these questions with you so you can decide for yourself if the product sounds right for your cat.

1. How easy are the Soft Paws to put on the cats?

Applying the Soft Paws is about as difficult as giving your cat a nail trim.

If you can see well close up and your cat doesn’t try to bite your face off during nail trims, the Soft Paws shouldn’t be too much of an issue for you to put on your cat.

They nail caps are tiny, and you have to squirt a tiny amount of adhesive into each cap using a tiny glue bottle with a tiny applicator tip. Then you have to slide a cap over each of your cat’s front claws.

The Soft Paws are easy for me to apply, but it took a few tries to get a good system down. So just assume there is a learning curve. I didn’t get enough glue in the caps the first couple of times, and some of them fell off right away.

The instructions have some useful suggestions, too, such as to fill all 10 nail caps with glue at one time and then apply the caps. The instructions also say to fill one-third of the cap with glue, not the entire cap.

2. Will the Soft Paws for cats actually stay on?

Yes, the Soft Paws stay on, but not as long as intended.

My cats tried to pull the Soft Paws off initially, but then they got used to them. The caps fit pretty snugly even without any glue, so they do stay on better than you would think.

On its web site, Soft Paws claims each application will last approximately four to six weeks, and therefore each kit (of four applications) should last four to six months.

Realistically, an entire kit will last about two months.

Just assume you will be replacing the caps as they fall off. Each nail cap will definitely not last a whole month.

3. Will the Soft Paws nail caps really prevent damage?

Even while wearing the Soft Paws, cats are still able to cause some damage by scratching. However, the Soft Paws will lessen that damage.

If you want to prevent your cat from scratching something, you have to follow through with your usual training methods.

We don’t allow our cats on the couch, for example. When we are home we tell them “no,” squirt them with water or push them off. They have plenty of other places to sit and plenty of scratching options. At night or when we are not home, our cats stay in our large laundry room.

The Soft Paws have made it possible for our cats to have a lot more freedom because even if they do decide to scratch the couch, they are unable to cause as much damage.

4. How much do Soft Paws cost?

Each Soft Paws kit is $18.95.

Each kit includes 40 nail caps, two tubes of adhesive and six applicator tips.

In my experience, each kit will realistically last me about two months. I would also need to order at least 30 extra applicator tips ($0.25 each) because there are not enough of these in each kit.

There is a flat shipping rate of $3.99 on all orders.

So for me, the cost to use Soft Paws on my two cats for one year would be approximately $238.89 if I ordered everything at once. That is a price I am willing to pay for the product.

($18.95 * 6 kits * 2 cats) + ($0.25 * 30) + $3.99 standard shipping = $238.89 per year.

5. What will my cats think of the Soft Paws?

My cats don’t really mind the Soft Paws. They tried to bite them off the first few times, but then they got used to them. It also helps to distract the cats with food or catnip right after they get their Soft Paws on.

The Soft Paws do make it a bit harder for my cats to grip when they jump up onto something, but I say tough luck. My cats still go through their normal scratching motions while wearing the Soft Paws, and for the most part the product stays in place.

6. What are some problems with Soft Paws

There are a few problems.

1. The Soft Paws do not stay on as long as the company claims.

2. There are not enough applicator tips in each kit.

Each kit comes with six applicator tips. These tips are used to put on the end of the glue bottle in order to squirt the glue into the nail cap. The glue bottles are resealable for re-use, but you have to use a new applicator tip each time you re-apply the caps.

Since I have been replacing a nail cap every few days with my cats, I ran out of tips pretty fast. It has been about a month since I opened each kit, and I have lots of nail caps and glue left but only one applicator tip. Scout is missing one of his nail caps right now, and I’m waiting for a few more to fall off before I “waste” my last tip.

I contacted Soft Paws about this problem. I thought the company would be eager to mail me some extra tips. Instead, the representative told me I could order more for $0.25 per tip. She also suggested I try to put a piece of foil around the tip for storage after each use while keeping it attached to the adhesive tube. This is kind of hard to understand unless you have actually used one of the kits. I tried this suggestion, and it does help a little.

Will I continue to use Soft Paws for my cats?

Yes. I do plan to continue using the Soft Paws for my cats. I am happy enough with the product to buy it. It’s certainly not perfect, but I want to keep my couch nice without having to declaw my cats.

Win a free Soft Paws kit for your cat!

If you would like an opportunity to enter a contest to win a Soft Paws kit, all you have to do is visit the Soft Paws site at SoftPaws.com, view the color chart and leave a comment on this blog post including the color you like best.

To receive a second entry into the contest, tweet this message: Enter to win a free #SoftPaws kit via @ThatMutt http://bit.ly/rHoaJB

There are lots of colors to choose from, and they are all very cute! I will select one winner at random on Jan. 2! You must have a U.S. mailing address to win.

Here is Scout modeling his red, manicured paws. He looks so small in this picture – a pocket kitty!

Have you used Soft Paws for your cat? Were you happy with the product?

Discuss this issue further at That Mutt’s new dog forum.

I’ve been thinking about all the negative comments people shared on That Mutt’s Facebook page and on the blog when I wrote about declawing my cats.

I’m glad readers shared their opinions and that they care about the welfare of cats.

But I’m worried people missed my point.

If someone wants to adopt a cat and get that cat declawed, that is better than not adopting a cat at all.

When roughly 3 million cats are killed annually in U.S. shelters/pounds, you will not hear me go on a rampage against declawing.

I am worried that all the negativity around cat declawing is going to persuade potential adopters not to adopt a cat. The declawing issue could be too overwhelming for a potential cat owner, enough to convince her to forget about cat ownership entirely. That would be very unfortunate because cats can add a lot to a home, and there are millions of cats who could use just that.

The people who are most vocal against declawing are very uncaring about the way they deliver their message. There is a way to kindly explain to someone what cat declawing truly involves. It is not necessary or helpful to make immediate assumptions or judgments. The very animals we are defending know nothing about hate or fear or anger.

My former foster cat Ninja

My former foster cat Ninja was lucky to make it out of the pound alive. She was later adopted by my parents – two of the world’s biggest animal lovers. I knew they would make plans to have her declawed – a small price to pay for being alive and in a loving home.

People who foster cats have to make difficult decisions on who can adopt them. Sometimes it’s hard to let a cat go to a home where the people would not treat a cat the way you would treat a cat. But holding onto a cat for months waiting for an “ideal” home is just not realistic if the goal is to find homes for as many cats as possible.

The declawing thing is something I can live with. Declawing is a better option than not getting a home.

And as it turns out, my parents did not declaw Ninja after all!

Many landlords require cats to be declawed

If I were a landlord, I would have some pretty strict pet policies as well.

Although most people love their pets, they are careless when it comes to training them, cleaning up after them and preventing them from damaging property. Renters are generally more careless than homeowners. That’s just the way it is.

It’s easy to get around the rules and keep a cat without the landlord realizing it, but most people want to follow the rules. That means getting the cat declawed. I would hate to stop apartment dwellers from adopting cats just because they are afraid to have the cats declawed. Cats do very well living in apartment setting. Plus, they make great companions to the people who live there.

Will I declaw my cats?

I ordered some Soft Paws nail caps to put over my cats’ claws. I will let you know how this goes, so stay tuned for a review of this product.

If Josh and I do decide to declaw our cats, I know it will upset a lot of readers. I’ve already had several people accuse me of caring more about my couch than I do my pets.

But it’s not about choosing my couch over my cats. It’s about choosing what’s best for me and what I can live with.

My cats are here to add to my life, not make it more stressful.

Dogs and cats have a great ability to adapt to whatever life we give them. Adaptability is their gift to us. In return, we do our best to give them a good and humane life.

I value the relationship I have with Beamer and Scout. Getting them declawed would not change that. They would continue to love me just as they do now. They are animals, and they would not hold it against me.

Currently my cats are spending 15 to 20 hours per weekday in my laundry room when I am not able to supervise. So much confinement does not seem like much of a life for them, although they don’t seem to mind. Let’s remember that we are talking about cats here, not humans. Cats ask for very little.

But if my cats were able to understand the decision between 100 percent freedom without their claws or a lot less freedom with their claws, I tend to think they would choose more freedom.

I could stop worrying about a few scratches on the couch, but the thing is I really like having a nice couch. I am at a point in my life where I value the items I choose to own. This kind of value is new to me, and I see it as a good thing.

I used to look down on people who spend a lot of money on clothes, vehicles, furniture and so on. I am a very modest person and a minimalist, but I no longer look down on anyone for how she chooses to spend or save or give her money. To each her own.

As an example, I have very few clothes compared to most Americans. I have, literally, four pairs of shoes. Two are running shoes. One is a casual pair of Sketchers and one is a pair of “fancier” boots. And my definition of fancy is probably pretty loose.

I have two pairs of jeans. Total. One with holes. One without.

It’s not that I can’t buy new clothes. I can, and I do. I just prefer to own less. I don’t like clutter. I am very conscious of what I own and what I do or don’t hold onto.

So here I am in this crazy world of pets where people are accusing me of caring more about my material objects than I care about my cats.

Funny.

Thanksgiving night I held Scout in my arms as I fell asleep. He likes to curl up against my chest as close as possible to my heart. I have this little song I sometimes sing to him (I’ll spare you the lyrics), and he purrs and purrs and puts his face to mine.

Several times per day I kiss each of my cats right between the eyes as I tell them I love them. They are not thrilled with this, but they tolerate it.

For my own birthday one year, I leashed up Scout and took him on a picnic – just he and I. I ordered Chinese takeout and we sat at a picnic table in a park.

One time Scout traveled to Duluth (Minn.) with me for a job interview. I ordered room service at the hotel – salmon – just so he could share.

My cats get Christmas presents from their “grandparents” and their “uncles.” They take part in birthdays and holiday gift openings and family gatherings.

Just a few days ago I was searching online for organic cat beds. I liked the one in solid red for Beamer, the polka-dot pattern for Scout.

If I am not a borderline crazy cat lady or at least someone who loves and values her cats, then I am not sure what it means to love a pet.

My cats are, in every way, a part of my family.

Photo of Beamer by Tawna Whitford

Photo of Scout by Tawna Whitford

]]> http://www.thatmutt.com/2011/11/29/its-ok-to-adopt-a-cat-and-get-the-cat-declawed/feed/ 12 http://www.thatmutt.com/2011/11/21/is-it-bad-to-have-my-cats-declawed/ http://www.thatmutt.com/2011/11/21/is-it-bad-to-have-my-cats-declawed/#comments Mon, 21 Nov 2011 13:00:10 +0000 Lindsay Stordahl http://www.thatmutt.com/?p=8082 My view on cat declawing is that every cat owner should make her own decision. Declawing a cat is not inhumane. It is a reasonable option for people who want to own a cat and nice furniture.

I don’t feel so bad for the pampered indoor cats that get declawed because I know these cats are lucky to live in homes where they are loved.

Many cats are not so lucky.

In 2010, 446 impounded cats were killed in our three local pounds located in Fargo (N.D.), West Fargo (N.D.) and Moorhead (Minn.), according to the pound stats reported by Adopt-A-Pet of Fargo-Moorhead.

I do not feel bad for cats that live in homes without their claws while so many cats are killed in pounds.

Josh and I got a new couch Friday, so now we are facing the question most cat owners ask at some point:

Should we declaw our cats or not?

Josh is all for it, and I’m on the fence so we probably will have Beamer and Scout declawed eventually.

I’ve written about the pros and cons of declawing a cat before, so I won’t repeat myself here.

Instead, I want to share my personal take on this issue because I do believe it is a personal choice for every cat owner. I’m not telling you what to do. I’m just explaining my point of view as a cat owner who loves her cats very much.

Personally, I want to do all I can to teach my cats not to scratch the furniture. If nothing works, then I am 100 percent in favor of declawing them.

So right now we are teaching them they are not allowed on the couch at all (I know, I know. Just hold off on the laughter a bit). Dogs are not allowed on the new couch, so the cats aren’t either.

It’s not just the actual scratching from cats that damages furniture. It’s years of cats “kneading” into the cushions with their claws as the get comfortable and relaxed. It’s years of jumping onto the arms and the back of the couch. It’s years of wrestling and playing on the couch.

So we’re trying a new concept: No cats allowed.

Our cats respond pretty well to a voice correction – “Hey!” or “No!” We use that if they approach the couch, and we also have a water bottle nearby. We haven’t had to use it yet. The cats have plenty of other seating options such as an old chair, pet beds and a new, two-level scratching post. Their favorite spot is Ace’s dog bed.

To keep my cats entertained, I’ve been making sure to play with them every day. We play chasing and pouncing games so they have less energy for scratching the couch. I’m also trying to rotate their scratching posts to keep things interesting, and to rotate their toys and randomly put treats and catnip on their appropriate scratching and sleeping places.

And obviously I’m keeping their nails clipped.

When we can’t supervise our cats, we put them in our laundry room (their catpartment).We’ve been doing this for months already because Beamer eats everything in sight, and Scout … well, he poops on rugs

I really don’t believe these attempts will stop them from scratching the couch, but I’ll feel better if I give them this chance.

It does help that Scout and Beamer are 6 and 8 years old – not kittens – and they sleep for a good 19 hours per day.

Isn’t it inhumane to declaw a cat?

You have to decide what is right for you and your cats. There are always going to be people who tell you it’s cruel to declaw a cat. There are always going to be people who believe that declawing an indoor cat is just what you do. Read up on the pros and cons of declawing a cat and discuss it with your cat’s vet.

It’s never made a whole lot of sense to me how some people can be so against declawing cats but so in favor of spaying and neutering cats.

People will use certain points to argue against declawing, but then they will totally ignore those same points when it comes to spaying/neutering.

Here are the most common examples:

Declawing a cat will cause the cat pain.

Yes, declawing a cat causes pain, but so does spaying/neutering a cat. Any surgery will cause at least some amount of pain for an animal.

Declawing a cat is far less invasive than removing her ovaries and uterus, a procedure most cat owners do not think twice about.

Declawing a cat is convenient for the owner.

Of course it’s convenient to own a cat that doesn’t destroy property with his claws. It’s also convenient to own a sterilized cat that doesn’t spray everywhere or go into heat.

Beamer marked in the house right up until the day he was neutered (poor bastard). He will also continue to scratch as long as he has his claws. He’s a cat!

Declawing a cat is not necessary.

Declawing a cat is not necessary, but either is sterilizing a cat.

Some people will argue that spaying/neutering is necessary for controlling the cat population. Controlling the cat population is important, but sterilizing cats is not the only way to accomplish this. Cat owners can prevent unsterilized cats from breeding by keeping them indoors and away from other unsterilized cats.

Others will argue that spaying a cat is necessary because it decreases her risk of mammary gland tumors, ovarian cancer and uterine cancer. I’m not convinced this is a real reason to spay every female cat.

Removing body parts such as the ovaries is going to eliminate the chance of future cancer to those body parts. But just because a cat has ovaries does not mean she has a high risk of developing ovarian cancer.

Removing a dog’s ovaries could actually decrease her lifespan, according to research from the Gerald P. Murphy Cancer Foundation. And sterilization can contribute to certain cancers in dogs, according to the department of veterinary clinical sciences at Purdue University.

Ted Kerasote, author of “Merle’s Door,” has a book coming out in fall of 2012 called “Why Dogs Die Young,” and it addresses these very issues. I can’t wait to read it.

Pet owners need to look at the pros and cons of sterilizing their animals and declawing their cats and make their own decisions. These are personal choices. What is or isn’t necessary is debatable.

To declaw or not declaw?

Beamer and Scout destroyed one couch over time. They will likely destroy another.

I’m going to give my cats a week or two with the above “behavior modification” plan and then re-visit the declawing issue. I have made up my mind that I am OK getting them declawed if they don’t leave the couch alone.

I love my cats very much. They have a good life.

Photo by Tawna Whitford

Photo by Tawna Whitford

Tawna has a big, black lab-type dog as well so she appreciates the beauty of black! Plus, she loves kitties. They seem to gravitate towards her. Most of these photos were taken on her iPhone.

If you look closely you will notice two cats on a big dog bed and one big dog on a little cat bed. This is typical. The animals have their pecking order figured out, and we know not to mess with it.

I switched my pets to one meal per day instead of two as a way to cut back on stress for myself. I have a cat named Beamer with an unhealthy food addiction, and the constant meowing and harassment before mealtimes really, really gets to me. My mutt Ace and my other cat Scout are a bit more subtle about begging, but still annoying.

In addition to the begging, let’s just say Scout has been having some bathroom issues. Apparently the litter box is now optional for Mr. Princess. Feeding him once per day is a way to control his “schedule.” I’ve been treating this cat like a puppy and restricting his freedom until I know he’s “gone.” It’s just easier to deal with this once per day.

So to make it easy, I switched all three pets to one meal per day, and they receive this meal in the morning. It makes my life less stressful, and the animals don’t seem to mind.

Like most people, I assumed my animals would “protest” this new schedule and beg like crazy for their second meal around 5 p.m. Instead, what I’ve noticed is my dog and cats beg because it’s part of their routine. They are not necessarily hungry.

My cats beg by showing exaggerated affection, scratching things to get my attention, head-butting me, jumping in my lap, poking me with one claw and meowing. My dog begs by exaggerated yawning, whining, nudging my arm and staring at me. He will also grab a bone and chew on it as loudly as possible right next to me.

Here are some examples that show my animals beg because it’s part of their routine:

“Triggers” in our routine cause my dog and cats to beg.

There are many pieces to our routine that cause my animals to ask for food. They know every detail of what formerly lead to their evening meal. When these “triggers” in our routine take place, they beg. If these “triggers” do not occur, they do not beg.

The most obvious trigger is when Josh comes home from work around 5 p.m. This “excitement” sets off the begging. On the weekends, 5 p.m. rolls around (and then 6 p.m. and then 7 p.m.), and there is no begging. Josh worked from home yesterday (and therefore did not come home at 5), and there was no begging.

Josh’s mom has been staying with us this week, obviously altering our routine a bit. There has been no begging this week.

My dog and cats always stop begging around the time they would’ve eaten.

Even when a trigger causes my animals to beg, they always stop begging around the time they normally would’ve finished eating. They don’t beg after 6 p.m. or so. The recent time change has also worked in our benefit. Once it’s dark, the animals assume feeding time is long gone.

This tells me that although certain triggers have conditioned my animals to ask for food, there are also triggers that tell them to stop asking for food.

Is it safe to feed my dog once per day?

This is a good question to ask your vet because some dogs need to eat more than once per day. It’s usually best to feed a growing puppy two or three times per day, for example. But for the most part, adult dogs will do just fine eating once per day.

I know some people are sensitive about comparing dogs to wolves, but I pet sit and foster a lot of dogs and I notice that many of their natural eating habits do compare to the way wolves eat in the wild.

It’s usually feast or famine for gray wolves, according to the International Wolf Center, an organization that provides information on wolf biology. Finding food is a full-time job for them, so they have to be able to go days or even weeks without eating much. When they do catch a large mammal, boy do they eat! A gray wolf is able to eat up to 22 pound of food at one time.

Many of the dogs I care for choose to eat once a day or even once every two or three days. They eat a large quantity of food at one time and then they are good to go for a few days. I believe that part of the reason they eat this way when I care for them is because their routines are off. Their usual “triggers” such as their owners coming home from work do not occur so they eat when they are naturally hungry.

When I travel with my own dog, he doesn’t ask for food around his usual mealtimes. There are no triggers to tell him it’s time to eat, and he is usually focused on more important things like new smells or getting someone to scratch his head or throw a ball.

Another factor to keep in mind is that most dogs would love to be out exercising for most of the day just like wolves. Most dogs would prefer to work for and earn their food. I’m not saying this is always convenient for the humans. I don’t always walk my dog before he eats. It’s just something to consider. After all, most of us would prefer to work for and earn what we own rather than have everything handed to us.

Will my dog throw up if he eats one large meal?

He might

My dog is one of those big-chested dogs with a tiny waist. I always make him lie down after he drinks water or he will throw up. That’s just the way he rolls.

Bloat is always at the back of my mind as well. Bloat in dogs occurs when a dog’s stomach fills up with air, making breathing difficult because of pressure on the diaphragm. So when Ace eats a large meal, I keep him quiet for an hour or so afterwards. He is fine to go for a walk, but I don’t throw his ball or take him running until a few hours later.  He naturally wants to curl up for a nap after he eats anyway.

How should I switch my dog to one meal per day?

Just switch him, cold turkey. It’s no big deal. Just combine his meals to one so he gets one larger meal. If he doesn’t eat all the food, then put it away after 10 minutes. He’ll be hungry the next day. Feed him at the same time every day to help him get used to the new routine. Don’t feel bad for him. He’ll adjust to the new routine after a few weeks.

I’m not saying it’s better to feed a dog once per day. It just works for me and my dog right now. I might stick to this schedule or I might not. If you want to feed your dog two or three meals per day, then by all means, go for it.

Some people will definitely call me lazy for only feeding my pets once per day. Maybe it is lazy. But making cuts to a routine is not always the easy route. Who is more disciplined? The person who checks her email once per day or the person who checks her email multiple times per day?

How many meals per day do you feed your dog or cat?

Sometimes the answer to this question isn’t known because the dog hasn’t been given the chance to interact with other dogs under appropriate settings.

The problem is, when a dog is taken from a pound environment or a shelter environment, he is going to be stressed and full of pent-up physical, emotional and mental energy. If you remove him from this environment and place him directly in front of another dog, there is a pretty good chance there will be at least some growling from one or both dogs. Adding tense leashes and tense people to the situation is a sure set-up for failure!

But this is exactly how most dogs in need of foster homes meet other dogs!

Since I’ve had my fair share of foster animals and other four-legged guests at our house, I’ve learned that it’s always best to take introductions very slowly. For most dogs, there is not a black-and-white answer to the question of “Does he get along with other dogs?” It just depends on the energy of each situation.

So what can a volunteer do if she is thinking about fostering a dog? Here are some suggestions.

How to introduce my foster dog to my own dog

Get as much info as you can about the potential foster dog.

The first step is to get some feedback from the people who have interacted with the potential foster dog the most. Does he growl at other dogs near his pen? What does he do when he sees other dogs during walks? Has he had the chance to walk with or play with other dogs in a controlled setting? How has he done at adoption events? Has he lived with other dogs before?

You also want to consider a dog that is going to compliment the energy and personality of your own dog. For example, my dog is pretty laid back, so he doesn’t like when I bring home a hyper, young dog. He prefers to hang out with more mellow, older dogs.

Take the potential foster dog for a walk before you decide to bring him home.

Take some time to get to know the dog you are interested in fostering by going for a long walk. Make sure to observe how he interacts with other dogs you happen to pass.

This initial walk will give the two of you a chance to begin forming a bond without the distraction of your other animals. Since dogs are so scent oriented, the potential foster dog will smell your animals on you and begin to associate them with you. When you get home, your animals will smell the potential foster dog as well. Just think of yourself as the messenger. Who knows what kinds of info dogs learn by smelling another dog on a human, but clearly they must learn something!

Take the potential foster dog and your own dog for several walks together.

Bring a friend along to handle one of the dogs. There’s no need to let the dogs sniff one another right away. Do your best to avoid head-on greetings or prolonged eye contact between the dogs. Wait outside with your own dog while someone brings the potential foster dog out. Don’t have them meet in a small, crowded room.

Walk the dogs side-by-side and then one in front of the other so they can get used to walking as a pack. They can smell one another from a distance just fine. If all goes well, let them interact a bit at the end of the walk. The walk doesn’t have to be very long. Even 10 minutes or so would be fine. Obviously, the longer the better. Walk for a half-hour or more if you can.

Return and repeat this walking step two or three more times before bringing the potential foster dog home. Doing so will help the dogs associate something positive with each other – fun walks!

Use a baby gate to create non-stressful separation between the dogs.

When you do decide to bring the foster dog home, don’t put both dogs loose in your car together. Take your dog home first or put them both in kennels if there’s room. Or have your friend take one of the dogs in her car.

Once you get home, this is a great time to take both dogs for another long walk with the help of a friend. I’m talking about a good 45-minute walk or longer. Bring home your foster dog on a weekend or during a time when you will have at least two full days off from work.

After the walk, put the foster dog in a bedroom or other small area with the door open and a baby gate as a barrier. Kennels and closed doors often create frustration and anxiety, but a gate will allow the dogs to interact safely.

The gate will allow your resident pets to approach the foster dog, but it will allow for some safety if one of the dogs decides to snap. Of course, make sure to supervise and distract either or both dogs if there is any tension such as raised hackles, staring or frozen body positions.

The baby gate is also a safe way to let resident cats remain free, but once again, you want to make sure to supervise just in case the foster is able to jump the gate or knock it down. And extra curious and brave cats will not hesitate to jump right over the gate to greet the newcomer. So use common sense.

Let the foster dog roam around with his leash on.

If all goes well after a day or two of the gate stage, it’s OK to let the dogs interact without the gate, but keep the foster dog on a leash. You do not want the foster dog running all over the house exploring and sniffing every corner, claiming everything. For one, this is an open invitation for accidents or marking. But it’s also going to increase the energy levels of all the animals and could lead to a fight.

I usually keep the foster dog “tethered” to me for at least a day until I know more about the dog. Is he housebroken? Does he mark in the house? Is he OK with my cats? Possessive over toys? The leash is usually around my waist or ankle or looped under a nearby chair or table.

Let the dogs interact without leashes.

After a day or two of interacting with leashes on, give the dogs some supervised time together off leash. I still would not give the foster dog full freedom of the house for a few more days. Freedom is a privilege. You may want to use the baby gate again to block the stairway so the foster dog can’t get upstairs. At the very least, keep all your bedroom doors closed. It should be a privilege to enter certain areas of the house. For example, don’t allow the foster dog on your bed quite yet (if ever!).

Continue to use common sense and keep your cat’s safety in mind, too.

Always keep the foster dog confined to a single room or a kennel when you are not home. This is for the safety of all animals. Keep two barriers between the dogs such as a kennel and a closed door because it is fairly common for a dog to bust out of his kennel. I’ve had several pitbull-type dogs use their big heads to push or bend the kennel doors open within seconds. Impressive, I know! This could be a very dangerous situation if the two dogs do not get along.

If you have cats, you should have three barriers between them and the foster dog. For example, put the cats in one bedroom with the door closed and put the foster dog in his kennel in another bedroom with the door closed. My first foster dog busted out of her kennel and proceeded to tear apart my bedroom door frame. My cat was loose in my apartment on the other side of that door. Luckily, this dog was friendly and had no intention of hurting my cat. But that is not always the case, and I’ve heard some very sad stories. Fostering teaches some hard lessons sometimes.

Go back to previous steps, if needed.

If there are any problems during any of these steps, revert back to the previous steps. This should help set your foster dog up for success at your house and a “good with other dogs” status on his adoption profile.

Make sure you are relaxed when interacting with the dogs. If you are tense and worried about a fight all the time, that will not help the dogs relax. Keep the dogs well exercised and calm, and chances are everything will go just fine. Pretty soon your foster dog and your own dog will be napping on the couch together.

Take it slowly with every new dog the foster dog meets.

Just because the foster dog gets along with your dog doesn’t mean he will get along with all dogs. Every situation is different. It’s always better to take it slowly and set the dogs up for success rather than rush these kinds of interactions.

Take precautions if a dogfight does occur.

If a small scuffle or a full-on fight does happen, try not to freak out. These things happen. Usually a loud “Hey!” will stop the fight immediately so you can re-gain control. Never throw yourself between the two dogs or try to pull them apart with your hands. Never bend down and put your face at their level. Instead, use something else to get their attention. Try throwing a blanket over one of the dogs, squeaking a loud toy or even throwing water on them. A strong voice correction has always done the trick for me, but this won’t be the case for all dogs.

Remember, there are always more dogs to foster.

If this particular fostering situation doesn’t seem to be working out, no worries. Every foster dog will not work out in your home. We all have to return a foster dog at some point. Take comfort in knowing there are plenty of other dogs that need foster homes.

The shelter or rescue group should be willing to work with you to find the best match for you and your own pets. The dog will likely go to another foster home or back to the shelter. That’s OK. You gave it a shot. The more you foster, the more you will understand which types of dogs will work out at your house.

Thank you for giving fostering a try!

For those of you who have fostered dogs before, what tips do you have for introducing a foster dog to your own dog?

This beauty is Vixen, a dog we fostered back in January of 2009. She was adopted quickly, after just two weeks. She and Ace got along for the most part, but every now and then we had a few scuffles.