Foster dog Barkley is a good boy and doesn’t make a peep until he knows I’m awake. The problem is, once he knows I’m awake he gets really excited and starts whining. I’m sure he anticipates seeing Ace and going for our morning walk. This anticipation puts him into an anxious frenzy.

I have a strict rule where I will not let Barkley out of his kennel unless he is quiet. But the longer I wait for Barkley to calm down, the more anxious he becomes. He doesn’t know how to calm himself. He just whines more and more. His anxiety builds until he is panting heavily, shaking and getting more worked up.

Plus, his whining frustrates me. A lot. I like my mornings to be relaxing.

So what should a dog owner do to stop a dog from barking in his crate?

We all know it’s best to ignore a dog when he barks. It’s not a behavior we want to reward.

I want to ignore Barkley’s whining in the morning, but he needs to get outside, eat and go for a walk.

Here’s the trick:

Quietly get up and let the dog out of his kennel before he starts whining. That way you reward him for being quiet.

Barkley’s whining is triggered by the sound of me walking around when I wake up. I need to remove that trigger.

Some dogs start barking at a certain time every morning, regardless of hearing their owners or not. If that is the case with your dog, you can still get up a few minutes earlier and let him out before he barks. That’s better than letting him out once he’s already barking.

Once you let the dog out for a potty break, it’s up to you whether you want to put him back in his kennel or let him be loose.

I choose to put Barkley back in his kennel while I go about my morning routine. He whines, but that’s fine. I ignore him until he shuts up. There is no urgency to get him out since he has already gone to the bathroom. He used to whine for 20 minutes. Now he quiets down within five.

I recommend giving your dog a treat like a Kong filled with peanut butter when you put him back in his kennel. That is a good habit, especially if you plan on going back to bed on a Saturday morning.

Reward the puppy when he is quiet!

When Barkley whines in his kennel throughout the day, I completely ignore him. He does not have to get outside just because I got home or just because I want to walk Ace. He can wait.

The tricky part is determining how long to wait before you let the dog out. You want the dog to be quiet, but for how long?

It depends on the dog, his level of anxiety and the exact situation.

My suggestion is to pre-determine the amount of time your dog has to be quiet before you let him out. Stick with that for a day or two, and slowly increase the time.

If you are dealing with a very anxious dog, then start small. Require him to be quiet for five seconds. Yes, seconds! Literally count in your head slowly to five. If the dog whines while you are counting, start over. If the dog can’t calm down, then you may need to shorten the time to three seconds.

Barkley can be a very anxious guy, but he does calm down if I ignore him and do other things. Ideally, I wait until he is completely calm and I haven’t heard any panting or whining for at least five minutes. Sometimes the whining starts again as soon as he hears me grab a leash or put on my coat. So then I ignore him until he calms down again.

I am fortunate to have a flexible schedule where I come and go throughout the day. I plan Barkley’s schedule accordingly. I understand when you are pressed for time you can’t wait forever for a dog to stop yapping. In those cases it’s best if you can still wait for a pause in the whining, even if it’s just a few seconds.

With an anxious dog, you really do have to work in small steps. If your puppy was quiet today for five seconds, then try for 10 seconds tomorrow and 15 seconds the next day.
It’s frustrating, and it takes a lot of patience. Trust me, I know.

Unfortunately, getting upset and yelling “No!” at the dog is not going to do much good. Most dogs whine because they want your attention. If you return and tell them “No!” that’s usually enough of a reward to encourage the behavior.

So take a deep breath, stay calm and ignore!

What if the dog never stops whining?

I met with a trainer last week to get some suggestions on Barkley’s issues. I asked her what to do when the dog won’t stop crying.

I liked her suggestion:

If you have to get the dog out of the kennel and he’s been whining nonstop for several minutes, go to him and have him “watch” or “sit” on command. Even if he’s been whining for 10 minutes, he will associate the reward for what he just did (eye contact or sit).

Barkley and I have also been attending a training class with Abby Cline of Pawsitive Vybe. She said if the dog doesn’t know the command for “watch” or “sit” quite yet, wait for him to do the behavior on his own. Mark the behavior with “yes!’ and reward.

Following these suggestions, Barkley has learned that nothing happens when he scratches at his kennel door. Nothing happens when he whines, either. Instead, he sits in the back of his kennel politely and waits for me to open the door.

Barkley has made lots of progress. Although he still believes he is the center of the universe, he is learning the rest of us think otherwise.

What tips do you have for teaching a dog not to cry or whine in his kennel?

Check out this post if you think your dog has separation anxiety.

Barkley is up for adoption with 4 Luv of Dog Rescue in Fargo. To adopt Barkley, the first step is to fill out a pre-adoption application.

There is a lot of negativity around someone who decides to re-home an animal.

“Pets are for life.”

“Why would someone with a pitbull move to a place where pitbulls are not allowed?”

We are quick to judge when we know very little.

My mutt Ace is just one example of a dog who was re-homed.

Ace’s previous owner got him on a whim as a puppy. I think we’ve all heard that story before. She cared for him, gave him shelter and access to veterinary care. She taught him to go to the bathroom outside and to hang out by himself in a kennel. He got to grow up around another dog and also a cat.

His first owner did many things right, and she probably loved him.

But Ace’s first owner knew Ace wasn’t getting the attention or the time he needed in her home. He was probably also a financial burden.

Should she have kept him anyway?

I’m glad she didn’t, because now I have the dog of my life.

Sure, I could’ve found some other dog. And Ace would’ve been just fine living out his life with his first owner. He would do well in most homes. But things are definitely better this way.

Ace’s previous owner is a good person, and I hope she has opened her heart and home to another dog since parting with “Junior.”

What if the dog bites?

My parents – two of the world’s biggest dog lovers – gave up their American water spaniel when I was about 3. They took Abby to the vet to be put down after a biting incident.

Sure, my parents probably did not train or socialize Abby properly. They definitely did not do their research before getting a puppy the way they did.

Did that mean they should keep the dog no matter what?

They didn’t think so.

Did it mean they should never have a dog?

Thankfully, no. They went out and got another puppy a few months later. They’ve had multiple spoiled, happy dogs ever since.

Foster dog Barkley

People have already said things to me about foster dog Barkley’s previous owner.

“Someone gave up on him after just two years?”

“But he’s a Yorkie!”

This is the first time I have taken in a foster dog directly from the original owner. This is very different for me than taking a dog from a pound where I don’t know the dog’s story. It’s easy to put blame on a person you have never met.

I could tell that Barkley’s original owner is a good, caring person.

Sometimes a dog gets to be too much, and it’s nobody’s fault.

In this case, the owner was putting herself and a family member before her dog. This is not something everyone has the courage to do. It’s difficult to give up a dog. It’s difficult to contact a rescue organization and admit you can’t fix a dog, a dog you have raised on your own.

I am dedicated to working with Barkley to help him build confidence and to help him cope with stress. He may be a cute, little Yorkie mix, but he is still a dog.

I don’t hold judgement against his previous owner for raising Barkley a certain way or for obtaining a puppy the way she did. I don’t blame her for letting him go. I hope she is at peace with her decision and that she will get another dog someday.

In the meantime, Barkley will wait for an experienced owner with no children to adopt him. A home with other pets would be just fine. He is a happy, friendly guy 99 percent of the time, but some situations scare him, and he needs some help.

I don’t mean to make Barkley sound like a bad dog. There is no such thing as a bad dog. I always want to remain positive when it comes to my foster dogs, but I also want to be real and honest.

Simply, Barkley is just a dog.

Have you ever given up a dog?

Barkley is a 2-year-old Yorkie/Lhasa Apso/Maltese mix. More info about him coming soon, but he has been a good little guy so far.

I’m not trying to take away any credit from Barkley. I believe he really is a good dog, but part of the reason he has been so good is because I haven’t given him any opportunities to be “bad.”

When I welcome a new dog to our home, no matter what anyone tells me, I always assume the same:

1. The dog is not housebroken.

2. The dog is not good with dogs or cats.

I make all kinds of other assumptions, too. I always assume the dog will chew things he shouldn’t and that he’ll be possessive of food and toys. I assume he’ll cry when alone and that he’ll bark at other dogs on walks. I assume he has had no obedience training.

When I get a new foster dog, sometimes I won’t know anything about him other than what he looks like. In Barkley’s case, I got to meet his previous owner and she gave me lots of information about him. This was very helpful, but I still can’t assume he will act the same way at my house as he did at her house.

To help a new dog be on his best behavior, prevention can go a long way.

Potty training a dog – a few reminders

1. Just because a dog is housebroken in one home does not mean he is housebroken in another.

Dogs are contextual. It’s kind of like how I might not recognize my dentist if I run into him at the grocery store. He’s out of context.

2. Dogs don’t always ask to go outside or show that they need to go.

Some dog owners assume that a new dog will go to the door and whine when he has to go potty or that he will paw, pace or bark. I’ve had dozens of dogs in my home. Most do not ask to go out (or maybe I’m not getting the message). Do yourself and the dog a favor and head outside at least every two hours.

3. Male and female dogs could mark in your house.

Keep all new dogs on a leash and near you for a few days so you can supervise. Marking is not the same as having an accident. I’m not sure we humans know exactly what dogs communicate through marking, but we do know it sends a message to the other animals in the environment – I’m here! I think of it as a Facebook update.

4. If the dog peed outside right away but hasn’t pooped yet, just assume he still has to go!

Take him back outside every 15 minutes or so until he goes or head out for a walk to give him enough time to go. I notice a lot of smaller dogs will poop in the house unless you take them on at least a 20-minute walk.

5. Unless the dog is in his kennel, take him outside at least every two hours.

That way you will prevent accidents. It’s totally reasonable to expect a new dog not to have any accidents at all – as long as you are doing a good job getting him out often enough!

6. If the dog is not in his kennel, he should be under your direct supervision.

I recommend keeping the dog leashed at all times for at least the first three days.

7. Remember not to get mad if the dog does have an accident.

You don’t want the dog to be afraid to pee in front of the crazy lady who yells. Just get him out more often and reward him when he does what you want.

8. Slowly increase the dog’s freedom over time.

9. Go for lots of walks so the dog has plenty of opportunities to relieve himself outside.

Preventing dog fights – common sense

Barkley seems like a friendly guy, and I was not worried about any fights between him and my mutt Ace. Still, I know it’s best to take precautions. Here are some basics so all goes smoothly between your new dog and your other dog.

1. Don’t allow direct eye contact between the dogs when they first meet.

Try to keep one dog turned to the side or just move your own body in between them as needed.

2. Distract one or both dogs if there is any tension.

When dogs are tense, they are more likely to growl or snap. Sometimes a dog will tense up and then decide to do a friendly play bow, but I still like to ease the tension to keep the excitement levels low. I noticed Ace getting a little tense when Barkley was super excited, so I made sure to ease that tension by giving Ace a butt scratch and some friendly pats on his side. I also blocked Barkley from jumping all over Ace. He loves Ace!

3. Don’t allow the dogs to get too excited.

Playful excitement isn’t necessarily bad, but it can easily escalate from play fighting and chasing to an actual fight. I prevent this by allowing basically no playing in the house. No rough housing. No chasing games. No tug of war. No wrestling. Instead, I encourage the dogs to hang out quietly on their beds. Of course, we play from time to time indoors but I keep the energy levels controlled and I initiate the play.

4. Keep the new dog on a leash at all times.

Barkley has his leash on whenever he is not in his kennel. That way I can keep him near me at all times and also pull him back if he is bothering Ace or my cats. Sometimes a baby gate can also work well for creating a barrier between the dogs that still allows them to interact a bit. It’s still important to supervise the dogs whenever they are not in their kennels.

5. Trust your cat’s judgement of the dog.

My cats are used to dogs, and they can read a dog’s body language better than I can. I trust their judgement. They were not fazed at all when they met Barkley. They immediately claimed his blanket and checked out his kennel and toys. They had no need to jump to higher ground or to run and hide. They hung out at his level and didn’t even leave the room. If, on the other hand, my cats were tense, extra vocal or hanging out on furniture higher than the dog, I would know to take extra precautions.

6. Don’t get upset if your own dog growls at the new dog if it is an appropriate correction. 

Ace is generally laid-back and submissive, and I trust him around other dogs. It’s rare that he will snap or growl, but when he does it is usually appropriate. I do my best to keep Barkley in line and pull him away whenever he is getting too excited for Ace. But at one point in the last few days, Ace growled at Barkley to tell him he’d had enough pestering. Dogs communicate by growling, and there was nothing wrong with Ace telling Barkley to knock it off.

7. Pick up all toys and bowls so there is no resource guarding.

It’s possible for a dog to guard anything he sees as valuable. Most often a dog will guard toys, bones, food, other dogs or his owner. But a dog could guard pretty much anything like his bed, his kennel, a blanket, the couch, a certain room or even his water dish. Make it easier on yourself and pick up anything you can that either dog might decide to guard. Feed the dogs in separate rooms or in their kennels until you know there is no food aggression.

When the new dog is in his crate, that’s the perfect time to provide both dogs with special treats and chew toys. Some of Ace’s favorites are Nylabones, Kongs and  bully sticks.

What tips do you have for potty training an adult dog or preventing confrontations between the dogs?

Introducing Barkley!

She seems to know which dogs I might consider, and that sometimes I just need to be asked and I’ll take one in.

This time, she told me she just wanted to run a dog by me.

“Barkley” is a 2.5-year-old neutered Yorkie mix, she said. According to his current owner, he is a resource guarder and not good with cats. He also has some housebreaking issues.

Sounds like a charmer

Now, anyone who knows dogs knows these kinds of issues can typically be taken care of with some simple rules, a crate and a routine. Usually it’s a lack of leadership on the owner’s part and no fault of the dog’s. In this case, the current owner even admits she does not have the time or the energy to work with the dog. Instead, she wants to find him a good home.

When I am asked to foster a dog, my first response is always the same. It is my default response: “I will give it some thought.”

In this case, it wasn’t even 24 hours before I sent a second email:

” … I’d be willing to give it a try with him starting Jan. 2.”

So there you have it.

“Barkley” will be here after the New Year.

I can tell by his picture (below) that he rules the house where he lives now! Is that towel on the chair just for him?

I can’t wait for the opportunity to teach Barkley how to be a dog.

I am also a bit worried that someone named him “Bark-ley.”

Stay tuned …

Barkley is not officially with the rescue organization yet, but if you are interested in adopting him, you can start by filling out the pre-adoption application with 4 Luv of Dog Rescue. Once you are approved, the cost to adopt a neutered dog from the rescue is $150.

If you have any questions about Barkley or the adoption process, send an email to Lindsay@ThatMutt.com.

I wanted to share Ellie’s example because it tells a lot about the complex relationships we form with our dogs and how this is not necessarily good.

Ellie explained how every time she tries to pet another dog, Gemma growls and snaps at that dog. This is a problem because Ellie wants to get a second dog, and Gemma’s behavior would make that difficult.

She asked for advice on how to fix this problem.

I wrote back and told Ellie that it doesn’t sound like Gemma has an issue with other dogs. Instead, it sounds like Gemma has an issue with possessiveness. Gemma may be a bit insecure or fearful, but she feels secure and safe near Ellie. So, like many small dogs, she wants to guard her “power source.”

I told Ellie to take more control of the situation. She should learn to block Gemma from getting in between her and another dog by putting her arm out or giving a firm voice correction. I told her that she gets to decide which dogs she gets to  pet or hold. Gemma does not get to decide.

I told Ellie that she should consider putting a leash on Gemma, tethering her to a chair and ignoring her while she pets another dog. I told her to invite Gemma back once she is calm and quiet.

This is the kind of advice I give out all the time.

In these situations where a small dog has total control, the owners are usually offended by my suggestions and never visit my site again or they thank me for my tremendous help. It’s an even split.

Ellie did neither.

Here’s what she said (I edited her comment for grammar and length):

Thanks for your reply. Sounds like good advise, but don’t think I could do it. Gemma is a proper baby and absolutely adorable. Everyone loves her. I’m worried that with this method she will feel pushed out. She’s like that with my hubby as well, but not so nasty. I may just have to resign myself to just her. I can’t have her upset. Thanks so much again. 

You can read the whole conversation here.

It’s too bad, really. Gemma would probably feel much better if her owner would take more control. And it’s a shame if Ellie can’t get another dog.

But I don’t see this kind of honesty often, and it was a nice surprise.

I appreciate when someone admits she is the only one standing in the way of change. This is rare.

I also appreciate when someone disagrees with me but delivers her argument with genuine kindness. Also rare.

Most people choose to blame others – in this case, it would be the dog. Or, they get angry and deny the problem exists (forgetting they found my blog while searching for advise).

I get to hear about people’s “dog problems” all the time.

These problems are rarely “dog” problems at all. They are almost always human problems.

Yeah, like you didn’t know that.

Really though, the holidays can be the ideal time to bring home a new dog. I sort of cringe when I hear otherwise, that the holidays are the worst time to to get a pup, that puppies should never be given as gifts.

The holidays are not the best time for everyone to get a dog, of course. This time of year is stressful enough already. Some of us travel. Some of us have all kinds of family visiting (often with their pets!). These are perfectly justifiable reasons not to get a puppy.

But … there is never a “perfect” time to get a dog. The holidays just might be the best time for many of us. So what if there are extra decorations and clutter around for a pup to get into. Most of us have clutter all the time!

Reasons to get a dog over Christmas:

Everyone is home during the holidays to help with dog care.

Lots of people take extra time off over the holidays. This will come in handy when the pup needs to go outside every few hours during potty training.  The kids are also home to help because of Christmas break. And since no one has to get up early for school or work, this is a perfect time for kennel training and conditioning the dog to being left alone.

Most of us commit to new goals at the end/start of the year.

This seems like the perfect time to make a commitment to a new dog and to get excited about all the training, exercise and socializing he will need.

The holidays are a relaxing time for many families, not chaotic.

Many of us go out of our way to relax during the holidays. I do. I sit around eating good food, enjoying my new gadgets, going for walks, taking naps or just talking with family. This seems like a pretty good time to add a new dog to the mix.

Gifts don’t have to be a surprise.

Obviously it’s a bad idea to run out and buy a puppy to surprise your girlfriend for Christmas. It would be much wiser to surprise her with some dog supplies and give her some time to think about what kind of puppy she wants.

Or even better, what if the two of you start planning for a dog several months in advance (like in August). Then you could pick out your dog together around Christmas as your gift to one another. If you have kids, it’s wonderful to involve the entire family in this process.

Even if the dog is for your child, it doesn’t have to be a surprise. Take the time to plan ahead for the dog and teach your child that getting a dog is a long-term commitment.

The holidays are all about giving.

How about opening your home and your heart to a homeless dog in need? Together, you and your family can give a dog the best gift of all – love.

If you are thinking about getting a dog this Christmas, let me know! I am very excited for you and even happier for the lucky dog who gets to share his life with you!

Photo by Tawna Whitford

Then there were a few people who jumped in preaching Cesar-Millan talk, saying that a dog that leans on you is trying to assert his dominance. And of course this created all kinds of drama as people became emotional and defensive about dominance theory.

Sometimes dogs do use their bodies to claim space or to get to an object first or to simply be in the lead. Call it dominance. Call it cute. Call it whatever you want.

But not a single person (except yours truly) brought up the fact that many dogs will lean on their owners for security. They will lean on their owners because they are shy, fearful or insecure. They are not trying to dominate their owners. They are trying to feel safe.

Nine times out of 10, when dogs lean on us they really are just seeking attention.

Ace will come up and slam his side into my legs, wiggling his body into a U shape and whipping his tail every which way. I don’t see this as dominance (although he does want my attention) or insecurity (although he does feel safer with me around). He’s just trying to connect with his best friend. And guess what? It works! I always bend down and give him a good butt scratch. “Good boy, Ace!”

But there are dog owners who don’t read into anything their dogs are telling them. Everything the dog does is cute or funny to them, even when the dog is trying to communicate something. To them, a dog that leans couldn’t possibly be trying to say anything other than “I love you.”

And then there are dog owners who assume every action from a dog always means the same thing. Growling always represents dominance, for example. Or a wagging tail always represents happiness. Or leaning always represents friendship. Hmm …

In order to understand our dogs, we need to pay more attention to what they are trying to communicate during each specific situation.

Dogs can certainly block us with their bodies in order to gain access to what they want, but they will also lean on us in order to feel safe.

Here are some examples of when an insecure dog might lean on his owner:

Shy dogs will often lean on their owners in order to feel safe

My former foster dog Cosmo is a leaner. He would lean on me when someone came to the door or when we attended an adoption event. This wasn’t because he was trying to dominate me. He was leaning on me in order to feel more secure.

Poor Cosmo was always stressed at adoption events. His ears would be back. He would avoid direct eye contact with people. He would pant with an open mouth. Usually one front paw would be raised and tucked up into his chest. Sometimes he trembled. Sometimes he even growled at people.

No wonder no one was very interested in him during these events!

I made sure not to give Cosmo affection when he leaned on me for security. Telling him “It’s OK. It’s OK. Good boy,” would only teach him to continue looking to me for security. In order to help him grow as an individual and build his confidence, I had to teach him not to depend on me so much.

So I would block Cosmo with my hip or my elbow (I was usually sitting on the floor with him). Or I would simply move away or up into a chair. He would usually shift back in order to lean on me again, and I would move away again as well. When he was relaxed and lying next to me without touching, I would pet him calmly.

Treats and favorite toys can also be very useful to help distract an insecure dog from everything going on. You don’t want to reward the dog for being unable to calm down, but you can use treats to get him to think about something else like sit or stay and build his confidence that way. Sometimes I would make Cosmo lie down and stay a foot away. Then he would get the treat as a reward for maintaining distance.

Some dogs climb into their owners’ laps in order to feel more secure

Some little dogs will climb into their owners’ laps in order to feel more secure. Big dogs try this as well, but it’s usually the smaller dogs that tremble in their owners’ arms because they fear something in the environment. It’s usually the owners of small dogs who unintentionally reinforce the dogs’ insecurities.

It’s easy to nurture a small dog’s fear by carrying him around and telling him “It’s OK. It’s OK, baby.” But this will not help the dog build any confidence.

Instead, the owner should place the dog on the ground and slowly help him understand that nothing bad happens in new situations. The owner should ignore the dog or move away when he frantically paws at her legs to get back up. She should give him a treat or pick him up only when he is calm or if the situation is truly unsafe for the little guy.

It’s also important not to completely overwhelm the dog. If he’s fearful of new people and dogs it might be a bit much to set him on the ground in the middle of a PetSmart or a street fair. But the owner should seek out less “scary” situations first and slowly challenge the dog more and more from there.

Some dogs will even become possessive of their owners, growling and biting from their owners’ arms if anyone gets too close. Of course they are going to be possessive. They don’t want to be removed from their “power source.”

But even these dogs are not barking out of dominance. They are barking up a storm because they are insecure. They are acting defensively.

So how can an owner fix this problem?

The same way as above. Seek out situations that are not too overwhelming, and keep the dog on the ground. Carrying him around will not help him build confidence.

Most little guys will immediately try to jump back into their owners’ arms – their place of empowerment.

The owner should not allow this, not unless the dog is truly in danger.

If the dog tries to jump back into his owner’s lap, she should block him with her arm. If he makes it into her lap, she should stand and push him off or set him on the ground. If he starts growling and barking at people from her feet, she should put his leash on him and tether him away from her. She should reward him when he’s calm and not barking or crying.

The goal is to help the dog grow as an individual by weaning him away from his dependence on his owner.

If your little dog is reactive to other dogs and people when on a leash, you may want to check out my post on dog leash aggression. It applies to dogs of all sizes.

Some dogs will hide between their owners’ legs at the dog park

When dogs hide between their owners’ legs at the dog park, many owners respond by petting the dog or talking to the dog.

Instead, it’s best to just step away. Keep moving. Don’t allow the dog to hide behind you or under you. Help the dog build his confidence by decreasing his dependence on you.

If the dog seems overly shy or fearful, just walk away from the other dogs, re-group and return again after a few seconds. You don’t want to overwhelm your dog too much by forcing him to interact right off the bat. Visit the dog park during quieter hours and don’t plan on staying for long. If he plays for a few seconds and then seems overwhelmed, just quit while you are ahead. At least he played for a few seconds. That is a success.

We always want our dogs to be social butterflies, but then we complain when they’re not calm! If you have a calm dog that doesn’t want to socialize all the time, that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

Some dogs appreciate socializing in smaller groups just like some people like to socialize in smaller groups. Some dogs and some people get tired of socializing sooner than others. Heck, I’m one of the most introverted people I know! I can certainly relate to all those introverted dogs out there.

What have you noticed about your dog when he leans on you? Is he usually seeking attention? Power? Security? Probably all of the above, depending on the situation.

These dogs needed to get out of the pound fast or they would be euthanized, she said. She described both dogs as very sweet around people.

The volunteer went on to say that a woman had been interested in one of the pitbulls, but the woman’s method of housetraining would be to rub the dog’s nose in any “accidents” and then “send the dog outside.”

The pound volunteer rejected this woman’s offer to take a dog. No further questions.

I later found out through 4 Luv of Dog Rescue in Fargo that at least one of these two dogs – “Molly” – was killed because “no one” would rescue her. I am not sure what happened to the second dog.

I know that rubbing a dog’s nose in her own pee is not the most effective housetraining method. But I also know that some adults – most of them loving dog owners – really do believe this is how you housetrain. And let’s face it, in a somewhat rural community like Bismarck, “clicker training” is not quite the norm. And that’s OK.

Maybe the woman who stepped forward to take one of the pitbulls would not have provided a safe environment for a dog for other reasons. Or maybe Molly was so dog aggressive that few people would’ve qualified to take her.

I doubt it.

More than likely, this potential rescuer could have provided an acceptable foster home for Molly or even an adoptive home.

Instead, Molly is now dead and no one has to worry about her.

If this particular pound wasn’t so picky about who can rescue a dog, Molly would still be alive. I’m wondering how many others stepped forward to save one of these dogs, only to be rejected.

If regional animal shelters and rescue groups did a better job getting their animals into homes, one of them could’ve taken on an extra pound dog like Molly.

There is a home out there for every dog.

Rest in peace, girl.

Passing the CGC test shows that a dog will remain under control in various real-life situations.

“The CGC Program is designed to reward dogs who have good manners at home and in the community,” according to the American Kennel Club.

Well, we sure showed them!

Introducing Cosmo Kramer, CGC.

The reason I wanted to make it a goal for Cosmo to pass the CGC test before getting adopted was because when he came to live with us he was not a good doggy citizen.

Cosmo was one of those rude little dogs in public situations and even at home. He used to growl at every person and dog we passed on walks. He used to bark at me, demanding treats. He would not obey basic commands without food motivation. He pulled on the leash so bad his Gentle Leader would hurt his muzzle and eyes.

Obviously there is no such thing as a perfect dog, and Cosmo still has a long way to go. He is still aggressive about treats, but he is learning self control. I would never trust him 100 percent around kids. And like most dogs, he still pulls on the leash. A lot.

But little Cosmo has come a long way, and I am proud of him. He did better than most of the other dogs that showed up to take the test on Sunday. Most of the others did not pass because they could not sit still when the evaluator talked to them or touched them, or they could not keep all four paws on the ground when walking through a crowd.

Cosmo and I would like to share some tips to help other dog owners prepare for the Canine Good Citizen test.

How to help your dog pass the Canine Good Citizen test

1. Make sure your dog has had enough exercise leading up to the test.

I’m not saying you should run your dog to exhaustion, I’m just saying you should give your dog an adequate amount of exercise so he can remain calm and focused. The most common problem I saw on Sunday was a lot of pent-up energy in most of the dogs. They showed up practically trembling with anxiety and excitement, panting heavily.

The dogs would get excited and roll around on their backs when the evaluator tried to pet them. They would grab onto the leash and try to initiate a game of tug after completing a successful recall. All in all, they were having a great time! But they were not under control.

Cosmo and I went for a 45-minute walk before the test. This made a huge difference for him, and cut back on his pulling dramatically.

2. Talk to your dog throughout the test.

Dog owners are welcome to talk to their dogs as much as they need to during the CGC test. Cosmo can get a bit nervous when a new person is touching him. So while the evaluator was lifting his paws and looking at his ears, I talked to him the whole time. “Wow! What a good boy! She’s such a nice lady! You’re being so good, Cosmo! Good boy!” I was a bit over the top, and it worked.

During the loose-leash portion of the test, I also talked to Cosmo a lot and patted my leg. I knew a tense leash was an automatic fail, so I let him walk ahead of me a bit (quite a bit). All that matters for this portion is that the dog remains on a loose leash and generally stays near his owner.

3. Take an obedience class at a location that offers the test.

Cosmo and I took the CGC test at the Red River North Dog Obedience Club in Fargo. Prior to taking the test, we took two obedience classes at this location. Obviously this dramatically improved our chances of passing the test because Cosmo was comfortable in this environment. Some of the dogs had only been in the building a few times, and they were energized and excited about all the new people, new smells and new dogs!

4. Practice for the test around dogs and people your dog has never met.

Cosmo had a very hard time remaining focused and under control when we approached a new dog during the “reaction to another dog” portion of the test. We actually failed this element, but if the dog passes nine of the 10 elements he is allowed to retake the part he failed. We somehow managed to pass during our second attempt while meeting a second new dog. Cosmo had trouble with this portion because he really wanted to lunge forward and greet the other dog.

When we practiced for this portion of the test, we practiced greeting dogs Cosmo had already met. This is no problem. What Cosmo does have a problem with is remaining calm when meeting new dogs. To better prepare for this, I should’ve been more consistent with making him sit every time we met a new dog in real life. But you know what? With an old crab like him, I’m pretty happy if he wants to rush forward and greet another dog. At least he’s being friendly!

What are some additional tips to help a dog pass the Canine Good Citizen test?

The average dog owner does not seem to be aware of what exactly this test is or why a dog should take the Canine Good Citizen test.

I only know about the CGC test because of my involvement with local dog training clubs.

The Canine Good Citizen program tests whether or not a dog is under control in various real-life situations.

In all honesty, the test is kind of a joke because most of the dogs (like Cosmo) practice for the test at the same place they end up taking the test. That doesn’t exactly test whether or not a dog is under control in a “public” situation.

But you know what? Most skills tests (for dogs or humans) are flawed in this way. There are definitely unfair advantages.

Still, I like the basic idea behind the CGC test. The goal is for the dog and owner to work together, practicing real-life scenarios.

The elements of the test are concepts every dog owner should be working towards, regardless of whether or not she cares about actually taking the test or obtaining a certificate from the AKC if the dog passes.

Since foster dog Cosmo and I have been working hard on the CGC components for the last couple of months, I thought I’d explain exactly what is tested during the CGC test so you can think about your own dog and where you are at with him.

The CGC test includes 10 elements. The dog typically takes the test with his owner. If the dog fails the test, he is welcome to try again another time.

What does a dog have to do to pass the Canine Good Citizen test?

1. The dog must accept a friendly stranger.

During this part of the test, the dog must remain relatively calm when meeting a new person. The dog may be sitting or standing at his owner’s side while an evaluator – the “friendly stranger” – approaches and says hello. The friendly stranger won’t pay any attention to the dog at this point, and the dog is expected to remain where he is without jumping at the stranger, barking, growling or wiggling around.

2. The dog must sit or stand politely while the friendly stranger pets him.

This is the part of the test where a lot of dogs get extra excited! The friendly stranger now asks if she can pet the dog! The dog must remain relatively calm while he is talked to and patted on the head and body.

3. The dog must sit or stand nicely for grooming.

At this part of the test, the evaluator will pet the dog some more, brush the dog, lift each of the dog’s front paws and touch each of his ears. The owner can talk to the dog and offer encouragement, but she can’t block the dog from biting or force him to hold still.

4. The dog must walk on a loose leash, not necessarily in a formal “heel” position.

This demonstrates that the dog will walk nicely without pulling on the leash. If the leash is tight, the dog does not pass. The owner can talk to the dog and tap her leg for encouragement. The walk will include a left turn, a right turn, two “halts” and a 180-degree “about turn” to the right.

5. The dog must remain under control while walking through a crowd.

Again, the leash must remain loose. The dog can show some casual interest in the people who make up the crowd, but he can’t jump on anyone, bark or growl.

6. The dog must sit, lie down and stay on command.

These are pretty self-explanatory. The owner can give more than one command, but she can’t force the dog into a sit or a down. The dog can’t follow her after she tells him to stay.

7. The dog must come when called.

Again, a pretty easy concept. The dog does not need to come and sit in a formal “front” position. He simply needs to approach his owner when she calls him.

8. The dog must not act aggressively or overly excited around a new dog.

The dog and handler will cross paths with a “stranger and a dog.” Both will stop and shake hands while their dogs sit calmly at their sides. The dog does not pass if he pulls on the leash, growls or barges towards the other dog.

9. The dog must remain under control when presented with a distraction.

A distraction could be a sudden noise such as a chair being dropped or it could be someone pushing a stroller. The dog can show normal interest or surprise, but he shouldn’t pull on the leash, bark or freak out in any way.

10. The dog must remain calm when separated from his owner for three minutes.

This part of the test shows that the dog is able to remain calm and under control with someone else even if his owner steps away for a few minutes. The dog can walk around or watch for his owner, but the leash should remain loose. The dog shouldn’t cry, bark or show distress.

More about the Canine Good Citizen test

If a dog passes nine of the 10 elements, he is allowed to retake the element he did not pass.

Dogs can wear slip or “choke” collars or martingale collars, but they can’t wear prong or pinch collars, Haltis, Gentle Leaders or anti-pulling harnesses. And obviously no shock collars are allowed during the test. Dogs that are “good citizens” should be able to remain under control without these types of training tools.

Treats are not allowed during the test, either, but owners are encouraged to talk to their dogs and repeat commands as needed. It’s nothing like a formal obedience competition.

The cost of the test depends on where you take it. For us it was $10. It is another $8 to obtain an official certificate from the AKC if the dog passes.

Stay tuned to hear all about Cosmo’s Canine Good Citizen test!