One of the best parts about owning a dog is being able to take him places without worrying how he’ll respond to other animals, people or objects.
I love that I can take my mutt Ace anywhere and know that I can trust him (he might drool on you, though). Ace will comfortably go for walks next to busy traffic, through large crowds or in a state park. When we pass other dogs that are barking or lunging, I know I can keep my dog calm and under control.
Dog leash aggression is a common issue. By leash aggression, I mean the dog shows signs of aggression, frustration, excitement or anxiety towards other dogs when he is leashed. Some people will call this barrier aggression because any kind of barrier or boundary such as a fence can bring out aggression in dogs.
The best way to help a dog overcome leash aggression is to work on the problem rather than ignore it. It’s easy to avoid other dogs during walks, but this will not help the dog learn anything. Instead, the dog needs to be exposed to more dogs while leashed so he can learn how to properly behave.
How to stop a dog’s leash aggression
Most leash-aggressive dogs are lacking in their social skills in some way. Either they are insecure about meeting a new dog and become defensive or they are so overly excited to see another dog that the excitement leads to aggression. Other dogs are territorial or possessive and become aggressive if someone approaches “their” human or “their” property.
One good thing is that most dogs will not actually attack other dogs, they just sound ferocious. But if the wrong dogs meet and both are unsocialized, the excitement could escalate into an actual fight. I’ve written past posts on how to introduce dogs and how to socialize dogs.
As for preventing leash aggression, the key is to teach the dog through conditioning that it is no big deal if another dog approaches, and there is no reason to feel insecure or excited.
Here are some additional tips for preventing dog-on-dog leash aggression:
Buy a good training collar.
The best training collar for large or strong dogs is the prong collar because it allows you to give the dog a correction if he fixates, cries, barks or lunges. I have an easier time controlling large dogs with the prong collar compared to a choke or slip collar. For dogs that are sensitive or reactive to a prong collar, try the Halti or Gentle Leader. Small dogs are usually OK on a slip lead.
Take an obedience class.
There is no easier way to practice loose-leash walking around other dogs than at a dog obedience class. The other dog owners won’t get annoyed acting as distractions for your dog because it’s good for their dogs, too. The instructor of the class should also be able to help individuals who are having trouble controlling their dogs.
Accept that stopping a dog’s leash aggression won’t happen overnight.
Dogs learn through repetitions – a lot of repetitions. It could take months to help a dog overcome leash aggression. Your consistency will pay off in the long run.
Stay relaxed and don’t yell.
When I’m walking a leash-aggressive dog, my natural tendency is to tense up and pull back on the leash when I see an approaching dog. This is the wrong thing to do because a tense leash will cause the dog to resist and pull, followed by crying, barking and lunging. If I’m relaxed, the dog will have an easier time staying relaxed.
Don’t allow your dog to walk in front.
The safest way to walk a dog is on a loose-leash at your side. There is no excuse to allow a dog with dog aggression issues to lead you on your walk. This puts the dog in control, not you. Even if you pull him back when you see another dog, he’s going to pick up on your excited energy and respond accordingly. Just keep him at your side all the time.
Recognize the early signs or aggression and correct the dog right away.
Usually the handler will correct the dog too late by yelling and pulling back on the leash. All this does is get both dogs riled up. The best thing to do is stay completely calm and pretend you don’t see the other dog. Keep the leash loose. It should actually form a “J” shape from the collar.
The “correction” is intended to snap the dog out of it and redirect his attention. I usually start with a loudly whispered, “Hey!” or by poking the dog’s side with my foot. This is often enough of a distraction so that I can re-group and make sure I have control of the dog. If that doesn’t work, I will do a quick leash pop that tightens and then releases the collar around the dog’s neck.
If the dog is so agitated that he can’t relax, I will put him into a sit position with his back or side to the other dog until he relaxes. Usually this only takes 30 seconds or so, but sometimes it’s a few minutes. If you have the dog at your left side, turn into his body and bump him back until he sits. Make sure to keep the leash loose the entire time. If he tries to lunge or bark once you start moving again, put him back into a sit.
You want to correct the dog before his behavior escalates into aggression, so watch for signs such as a raised tail or ears, raised hair on his back, heavier breathing, crying, stiffening or staring. Correct the dog the second he displays any of these behaviors.
Walk your dog by dogs that bark along fences – they are a great training tool!
Take advantages of those “bad” dogs that bark like crazy. They are often the greatest test. Stop worrying about what everyone thinks and purposely walk by. If the dog I’m walking becomes excited or aggressive, I correct him and we turn and walk by the fence again. Sometimes we walk by the fence five or six times.
If the dog’s aggression really escalates, I stop and put him into a sit position with his back to the fence for a minute or so until he relaxes. Then we walk by again. By relaxed, I mean he is not crying or frantically trying to turn and look at the other dog. Instead, his breathing has returned to normal and he is able to look at me or straight ahead rather than at the other dogs. I am not holding him back with a tight leash, but he is remaining in a sit position on his own.
Keep your own safety in mind.
If a dog is frustrated and can’t get at the dog he is focused on, he could turn his frustration against you or another dog you are walking and bite. Do not put your hands and face near the dog’s mouth. It’s safer to turn and step into the dog, making him back up rather than grabbing the leash close to his collar and pulling him back. The more agitated the dog is, the more likely he is to lash out at others around him. Dogs react to the situation they are in at that exact moment and will bite someone they love.
Walk your dog every day.
In order for the dog to learn that it’s no big deal to see other dogs, he needs to be around more dogs. I offer dog running services in Fargo, and the socialization side of getting out for a run is just as important as the actual physical exercise. Visit as many places as you can, walk your dog in different parks and neighborhoods and ask your friends if they will walk their dogs by you so you can practice teaching your dog how to be calm. Walking your dog for at least an hour every day will also help him get the exercise he needs. Most aggressive dogs are not getting enough exercise.
What suggestions do you have for dealing with leash aggression?
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Great article!!! However, I disagree with using a prong collar to help with leash aggression. When a dog reacts to another dog and gets sharp painful jabs in their neck, they may be associating the pain with seeing the other dog. They may be thinking to themselves, “Hey! There is a dog. Every time I see a dog, I get pain in my neck. I better tell him to go away!” This, of course, encourages more aggression. The gentle leader is a much better and more humane idea.
Also, I am reading this great book by Patricia B. McConnell, Ph.D. and Karen B. London, Ph.D titled, “Feisty Fido”. It is great and my dog Maya is making great improvement. It takes time and patience though. We started two weeks ago and still have a long way to go. Nothing good is ever easy.
“Feisty Fido” talks about using a “watch” queue and a “turn around” queue. “Watch” is similar to the sit indicated above. The difference is that you keep walking and get your dog to pay attention to you rather than to the other dog. A “turn around” is just like it sounds. When you see another dog, turn around and walk calmly away before your dog has a chance to react.
Thanks for the great post! I am going to try these strategies.
Thanks Dawn and Carla!
I prefer the prong collar, but the Halti or Gentle Leader can work as well. The way the dog is handled is more important than the actual tool that is used, so it’s important for each individual to use what they are comfortable with. I’ve heard your logic before about the dog associating “pain” with seeing another dog but the prong collar is not intended to cause pain and I have never had a dog become more aggressive when I’m using that particular collar.
I’ll have to check out that book. I am a fan of Patricia McConnell. The watch command or simply turning around are good ways to redirect the dog’s attention. I do think the dogs need to eventually learn to deal with another dog, but sometimes that can’t happen right away.
I have a question – What if you have a dog that used to be reactive on lead, but you’ve worked with that dog to the point where she’s no longer reactive when alone… but you have three dogs, and she’s reactive when the others are there, and gets one of them going too?
I’ve got three small dogs – two females, one male (all altered.) Girl A isn’t reactive to anything, EVER. Girl B is the one that used to be reactive all the time, but now she isn’t when alone, and my male will take a cue from Girl B when I am walking all three, and if she starts to get reactive around the group, he’ll join in.
Does “Girl B” do anything else differently when you are walking the group? Does she pull more, act more excited in general, etc? She probably sees herself as “the leader” when you’re out as a group, but when it’s just the two of you she knows you’re in charge.
Really watch her and correct her the second she starts to act more excited, even when there are no other dogs around. For example, don’t let her barge ahead through the door before the walk even starts. Also watch your male closely and make sure he isn’t actually the one starting it. Is he fine when walked by himself? Maybe walk just those two together and see how they do.
First, prong collars were never meant to be used to cause pain to a dog, unfortunately there are a lot of people out there that are using them and they don’t have the slightest clue on how to use them correctly. If you have ever used one and you have caused your dog pain or bloodied their neck then you are wrong and you need to stop. I use prong collars with my Lab and my Vizsla (if you are familiar with Vizslas then you know how incredibly sensitive they are) and when they see them they get very excited because they know they get to go and do something fun. Your dog should always have a positive association with your training tool. Just the act of putting the collar on is enough to put them both into the right mindset and while we are out, whether at class, on walks, runs, rollerblading, etc. I never have to actuate the collar, they know how to behave when they have it on and that’s the way it should always be.
I’m using the term “you” generally, not trying to point fingers at anyone.
Thanks, Sarah! Good points!
Ace comes running when I grab the prong collar. He cowers away from the Gentle Leader. He won’t even eat if it’s next to his bowl.
Girl B doesn’t do anything differently that I’ve noticed, but I will try to keep a better eye on it. It may just be something subtle that I’m not noticing. My male walks perfectly alone as well, but I can keep an eye on him also to see if maybe he’s the one starting things.
It may just be that he gets more excited (’cause he LOVES other dogs) and I don’t notice him moving forward, but my “girl B” DOES notice a change.
Thank you for the ideas. I will have to see if I can figure it out over the next week or so.
Let me know how it goes and what you do differently with them.
Hi! I am sharing the Versatile Blogger Award with you! Thank you for a great blog! Jana
Thanks so much, Jana!!
Haha – Gussie has “leash friendliness”…come to think of it, he has “off leash friendliness” too. You never have to worry about aggression with my giant hound unless you’re a squirrel. Even then, he just wants to sniff them!
Yeah that’s pretty much how Ace is as well. I never have to worry about aggression.
I just wanted to say thanks again so much for all of your advice. I’ve seen a great deal of improvement in Molly in the past couple of days. She’s not leash aggressive, but definitely dominant so this has help our walks tremendously. She’s quickly (though grudgingly) realized who’s in charge and looks to me when there’s another dog rather than trying to drag me across the street!
So glad I could help! Keep up the good work with Molly, and it will pay off!
I have a dog who is reactive to other dogs when on lead. Without a dog in sight, she walks with a loose leash but she pulls and lunges with the intention of going nose-to-nose with other dogs when she sees one. Often, when another dog approaches, she will put herself into a sit or crouch facing the oncoming dog. Once the dog gets close, she’ll lunge. If I keep her moving forward, I often end up dragging her along. If I let her stay in the sit or down as another dog draws near, I end up struggling to keep her close when the inevitable lunging urge hits. So what do you think, is it better to let her sit and work toward extinguishing the lunge, train by keeping her moving, something else?
Have you tried having her sit with her back in the direction of the other dog. That may be the best approach for now, something to break her from staring at the other dog. If she makes too much of a “scene,” then walk over to the other side of the road and put her in a sit facing away from the other dog on that side. Don’t break from this position until she is completely calm again, even if this is minutes after the other dog has passed. Make sure you are using the best possible collar in order to control her, which I’m sure you are. Eventually you can work to be able to put her in a sit facing the other dog and then approach the other dog only when she is calm.
I’m going to give these ideas a try. Have not tried to have her sit facing away from the other dog. Thanks for your insights and the useful blog.
Good luck, and let me know how it goes!
I have an extremely dog aggressive canine who is starting to learn to walk properly on a leash. He does fine until he hears other dogs or sees other dogs on their leash. He EXPLODES and cannot be calmed. I’m now using a prong collar and a harness in the case the prong collar slips a prong. I know he feels the prong collar because he will yelp while at the same time barking and lunging at every dog he can get his eye on. His episodes are so explosive NOTHING including offering him tasty treats will work. He is so agitated that food isn’t interesting to him……….and he is otherwise very interested in the treats but not when he sees or hears another dog. If we walk past a house and the dog is quiet he will stay quiet but if that dog behind the fence barks its on !!!! He cannot even feel the prong collar and he is a little dog. a tough little dog but still he only weighs about 12 pounds but is a very strong little terrier mix. Absolutely NOTHING I’ve tried is working.. Its only been 15 days into training but I would have hoped to see him settle down a bit while passing other dogs………… What should I do. I must correct this NOW or he could be put to sleep by his owners. Please e mail me at my e mail address above.
I highly recommend the book by Patricia McConnell called “Feisty Fido” which goes through step by step how to work with a dog with extreme leash aggression. The steps she outlines are based on positive reinforcement where you teach the dog a command for “watch.” Eventually you get the dog to automatically look at you every time he sees another dog. Of course, this takes a lot of time and you must first work without distractions by giving the dog a tasty treat when he looks at you after giving the command “watch.” You’ll have to lure him at first. Then progress to mild distractions such as just being outside, and so on. I suggest trying a Gentle Leader with the dog rather than the prong collar.